Is it possible to enjoy a leisurely pace in the mountains? Mary Novakovich, who is no longer active, avoids the high-adrenaline activities and opts for a more sedate vacation.

<img src="https://static.independent.co.uk/2023/07/20/13/newFile-2.jpg" alt="

Lake it easy: Immerse yourself in the water of Lake Annecy

” align=”center” style=”max-width: 100%; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;”>

Every summer, it seems, the inventive inhabitants of the French Alps invent new adrenaline-inducing activities to enjoy themselves in the mountains. I would have joined them earlier this year. But I’ve been limping about with an injured knee since a careless skier crashed into me in March. I resolved to investigate methods to take things more slowly and see how persons with limited mobility may make the most of a summer Alpine vacation as I still needed my mountain fix of gorgeous pure air, breathtaking views, and delicious cuisine.

<img src="https://static.independent.co.uk/2023/07/20/13/Annecys%20Pont%20des%20Amours%20Adam%20Batterbee.jpg" alt="

Annecy’s Pont des Amours

” align=”center” style=”max-width: 100%; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;”>

I was in the Annecy Mountains, which allowed me to mix little ski resorts with the name-brand city, one of France’s most attractive, and the nation’s third-largest lake. The small town of Talloires, which has its own beach and is one of more than a dozen places around Lake Annecy, served as my initial base. The wooden bathing deck in front of my hotel, Abbaye des Talloires, provided simple access to the sea, which was exactly what the doctor ordered. What a thrill it was to go into those crystal-clear waters and gently exercise my knee.

<img src="https://static.independent.co.uk/2023/07/20/13/Bout%20du%20Lac%20nature%20reserve%20Adam%20Batterbee.jpg" alt="

Bout du Lac nature reserve

” align=”center” style=”max-width: 100%; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;”>

I was unable to accompany the bicycles completing the 33 km Voie Verte circuit around Lake Annecy, so I went for a boat excursion with Florent from Blue Diamond Taxi Boat to get a better look. The picturesque Smugglers’ Cave was carved out of the rock beneath the cliffs of the Roc de Chère nature reserve, where Talloires is situated on its south-eastern side. Everywhere we turned, it seemed like there was a grassy bank, a sandy area, or a platform for taking a dip in the ocean.We drove to the southernmost point to get a waterside glimpse of the Bout du Lac natural reserve, one of the lake’s protected zones, which is marked by a wall of tall reeds. The following day, I went back to this lovely area of marshes, meadows, and woods where two rivers, the Ire and Eau Morte, fed into the lake to stroll along the accessible raised wooden walkways. Even if the beavers on the reserve stayed away, it was still a tranquil and relaxing way to spend the morning.

<img src="https://static.independent.co.uk/2023/07/20/13/Mary%20at%20Col%20des%20Annes%20Adam%20Batterbee.jpg" alt="

Mary at Col des Annes

” align=”center” style=”max-width: 100%; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; display: block;”>

The La Cuillère à Omble restaurant, a lovely lakeside place to taste some of the fish caught by the lake’s two remaining professional fishermen, located just up the road from the reserve. Among the most popular are omble (Arctic char) and féra (whitefish), the latter of which ended up on my plate after being deliciously cooked. This particular cheese junkie would typically be bingeing on comté and similar cheeses in the Alps. But I made up my mind to take advantage of Lake Annecy’s breathtaking bounty before continuing the journey higher in the mountains.

I headed up to Annecy’s Vieille Ville, which was still enticing as ever, before I had to pry myself from the lake’s beautiful waves. Here, the vibrant blue of the lake contrasted with the clear turquoise of the Canal du Vassé’s tree-lined waters and the lush green of the Jardins de l’Europe’s tree canopy. The majority of the populace appeared to be relaxing on the town’s lakeside beaches on this warm day. The medieval Palais de l’Île, which is located on its own island, is Annecy’s most picturesque monument, yet it was comparatively quiet because everyone else was lounging on the café terraces along the Canal de Thiou. I stopped by because admission was cheap €3.90 and I wanted to get a quick overview of the building’s fascinating history as well as see the artwork in its upper gallery.

It was time to climb another 600 meters in elevation and continue up the winding road toward my next base in the ski resort of La Clusaz after this extremely lovely lakeside respite. However, Les Fromages du Fermier in Manigod, also known as my conception of paradise, came first. I took part in the monthly Thursday cheese tasting and tour of the cheese caves (€8) here in this land of reblochon, tomme de Savoie, abondance, and beaufort. Although my French could hardly keep up with the banter, my palate was already proficient.

I quickly learned how strange it may be to travel to a location you only know when it’s snowing. On this warm June day, La Clusaz was at its greenest, with the neighboring Lac des Confins’ unfrozen waters reflecting the mountains in the distance. Numerous cows strolled around the meadows while ringing their cowbells to accompany the moos.

The terrain of the pathway was a little too challenging for my unstable knee, but the next day I had more luck on the Col des Annes, where a few eateries and cheese farms established a small town at 1,721m. I followed one of the routes that spread out from this mountain pass after eating tartiflette at La Cheminée. The moor-like scenery was occasionally studded with herds of cows. I noted the time on the signpost for the four-hour trip to Lac de Lessy and put it on my future wish list.

I discovered a museum in La Clusaz that honored cheese and skiing, two of the region’s most important cultural traditions. Le Hameau des Alpes (€7) is a charming Savoyard-style hut where the ground floor explains the tale of reblochon and the upper level discusses the history of skiing in the region in interesting detail (particularly using vintage film footage). I was reminded of how undeveloped and rural the area really is by the museum’s farm structures, which include an antiquated communal bread oven and displays of farming life throughout history.

The cuisine for my final meal at the hospitable Chalet Savoyard on the Col des Aravis at 1,498m, close to the boundary between Haute Savoie and Savoie, was undoubtedly rustic and country. When we left the restaurant on the summer solstice, the mountains still had a hazy glow to them. On the longest day of the year, people celebrate the Fête de la Musique in other parts of France by playing music. I was informed that Annecy was the location of the major celebration. However, there was only the loud, jubilant sound of cowbells, our little Fête des Cloches, here on the deserted D909 where the Tour de France would pass through in a few weeks. I only required the allure of the mountains in the middle of July, not an adrenaline-pumping Alpine experience.

In the summer, La Clusaz, a ski resort, takes on a completely different appearance.