Ghent’s lack of popularity among tourists is what surprises me the most about it. It is easily reached by train from the UK and has everything one might want: a leisurely pace of life, winding canal-side pathways, and a medieval heart full of buildings converted into eateries, pubs, and boutiques. Above all, Ghent is very much a city for its people; a sizable student population keeps the city’s cultural life vibrant, and the food and drink scene caters exclusively to local tastes.

But first, fill up at Mokabon, an old-school coffee shop, with waffles and coffee before diving in. Located off the vast Korenmarkt, which used to be the hub of Ghent’s wheat commerce, is a small lane. The medieval Belfry of Ghent stands nearby, towering over the elegant homes of the city. Perched at a height of 300 feet, this location is ideal for orienting oneself while taking in the expansive view of the city’s red-tiled rooftops. 

You can see the system of rivers and canals that was crucial in elevating Ghent to prominence in medieval Europe from this location. The views are still dominated by church spires, cobblestone quays, and gabled buildings, showing little change in 800 years. Graslei is the ideal place to begin exploring the canal; on bright days, families and students congregate along the pier, their legs dangling over the water. To really take it all in, head to the southern end of Graslei and cross the stone St. Michael’s Bridge.

You will encounter the Great Butcher’s Hall if you stroll north. It’s a charming location to purchase Flemish goods like jenever, a juniper-based drink, beer cheese, and cone-shaped cuberdon candies. Tierenteyn-Verlent, a mustard supplier since 1790, is not to be missed. Should that pique your interest, Frites Atelier is located directly across the plaza. The eatery, which is a part of a chain run by Dutch chef Sergio Herman, offers specialties such cream cheese and kimchi along with chips piled high with stew made of beef and beer.

The Huis van Alijn, a museum that examines daily life in the past and is housed in a former almshouse, is just a short stroll across the Leie river. For those old enough to remember them, the Nintendo Donkey Kongs and Wilbur and Friends dolls will inevitably elicit nostalgic sighs among the displays of vintage toys, packaging, and household goods. The Design Museum Gent features permanent collections of furniture and fabrics from around the world housed in the rooms of a former townhouse from the 18th century with a dramatic modern addition, paying homage to the city’s long history in the textile trade.

Take your time exploring the charming, winding alleyways of Ghent. Werregarenstraat, an alleyway so well-liked by street artists that it’s now more often known as Graffiti Street, and the Antiek-Depot, a large, disorganized area that houses several antique dealers and has a charming pub in the middle, are both worthwhile side trips. However, make sure to leave room for a drink at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij, a brewery that brews its beer with spices and herbs rather than hops. In its bizarre object d’art filled brewery hall, you may sample house beers (look out the zebra-striped stuffed cows on display). There are tours available if you’re eager to learn more.

You enter the industrial era and leave Ghent’s medieval core behind when you travel north. The massive old cotton mill that houses the Industriemuseum is filled with interactive exhibits that trace the history of the city’s industrialization through the industries of textiles, printing, and graphic design. The ideal place to finish your journey is Dok Noord, as most of Ghent’s contemporary development is concentrated in this historic port region. Hal 16, a food hall owned by Dok Brewing Company, serves as an illustration of the direction the city is going. Get pizza, smoked meats, veggie burgers, and beers to go, and eat inside the large former warehouse or outside on the patio.